Solo/ Surakarta and Yogyakarta  is the cradle of civilization on Java. Both cities have also shared history, but why is Jogja more famous among travelers than Solo? I think it’s related to Jogja’s reputation as one of Indonesia’s tourist destinations and as an international student city. But the neighboring city, Solo or Surakarta, has been promoting the city as a tourist destination since a few years ago and they are starting to reap. More travelers visit Solo to see its cultural attractions and historical monuments, learn about batik, and savor its authentic cuisine. The city has been slowly gaining a reputation as a fascinating city to visit. Recently, I had a chance to explore Solo in a few days and become agree that every traveler coming to Indonesia should put Solo on their list after Bali and Jogja.

Exploring Solo, Indonesia. The Twin City of Yogyakarta

It all began when I saw my Instagram friends travel to Solo. They’ve never been there before but they came to explore the city and taste the traditional food. I’ve been there countless times but never seen it as a tourist destination or a place to explore. My curiosity then led me to a New Year vacation in the city that is dubbed the Spirit of Java.

Solo known officially as Surakarta is a city in Central Java province, Indonesia located 65 km northeast of Yogyakarta. It’s known for its Keraton Mangkunegaran (The Royal Palace), home of Batik, Pasar Gede traditional market, and hometown of Joko Widodo (Jokowi), the current Indonesia president. Does the list remind you of Jogja? If yes, that’s because Solo and Jogja used to be part of the Mataram Sultanate from the late 16th century until the beginning of the 18th century. In 1745, during the Dutch occupation era, Surakarta was chosen to be the new capital of the Mataram Sultanate which was on the verge of becoming a vassal state of the Dutch East India Company (VOC).

Following the Giyanti treaty in 1755, the Mataram Sultanate was divided into the Surakarta Sunanate (northern court) and the Yogyakarta Sultanate (southern court) . The treaty divided Mataram in two: Surakarta and the land east of the Opak River belonged to Pakubuwono III, and Yogyakarta to the west of the river fell under the control of Mangkubumi who then took the title Hamengkubuwono I. Apart from the split of Mataram, the treaty also allowed the VOC to determine the ruler of the two new kingdoms whenever necessary – officially bringing Mataram’s independence to an end.

Since the Giyanti treaty, Keraton Kasunanan Surakarta Hadiningrat became Solo/ Surakarta Royal Palace, until 1757 when Raden Mas Said/ Sambernyowo Prince, nephew of Surakarta King, Pakubuwono III, led a rebellion. Salatiga treaty then ended the rebellion and he was acknowledged as a prince, given an autonomous territory, and resided in Pura Mangkunegaran, hence Solo has two Royal Palace to this day.

After Independence Day in 1945, Surakarta was given special status by Indonesia’s first president, Soekarno, as a Special Region of Surakarta, with the Susuhunan, Pakubuwono XII, continuing as governor. Sadly the special status was abolished in 1946 due to intense, organized resistance to the continuation of the monarchy. This event is commemorated as the birthday of the city of Surakarta. To this day, the Keraton Surakarta Hadiningrat and Pura Mangkunegaran serve as royal residents and a cultural heritage that draws travelers to visit and learn the history.

BACA JUGA: Gili Islands (Gili Trawangan, Meno & Air) Update : Things To Do, Hotel, & Budget

How to Get to Solo?

There are two flights daily connecting Bali and Solo. I took one of them and within 1 hour and 10 minutes, we landed at Adisumarmo International Airport (SOC). You can also fly to Solo from other cities in Indonesia such as Jakarta and Yogyakarta. From the airport, it’s easy to get to the city center. We took GrabCar, but if you fancy taking public transportation, you can opt to use the airport train (Adisumarmo Airport Rail Link). It operates hourly from the Solo airport to Solo Balapan train station. The journey takes 15 min and the ticket costs Rp.8.000,-. You can buy the ticket (and prepaid card) at the ticket kiosk or use Gopay (in the Gojek app) to pay.

If you’re coming from Yogyakarta, you can rent a car (with or without a driver) and drive through Jalan Raya Solo – Yogyakarta for 2 hours and 7 minutes. Solo and Jogja are also connected with KRL Solo-Jogja. You can hop in from one of Jogja’s train stations and in 1 hour and 30 minutes will arrive in Solo/ Surakarta. The ticket is Rp.8.000,- per trip.

How to Get Around Solo?

We used online taxis to get around. It’s pretty easy to reach every destination since there was barely any congestion in Solo City. I also spent time exploring the city by foot. Solo has decent sidewalks and some areas are even designated for pedestrians such as Jalan Diponegoro where the Ngarsopuro night market opens every Saturday night. We visited the car free night market then continues to walk around Singosaren (Jalan Gatot Subroto).

One unique thing about Surakarta or Solo is the centuries-old tram tracks that cross the main road, Jalan Slamet Riyadi. Built around 1922 by the Dutch and was abandoned for a long, since 2009 the tram rail is back to work. The Bathara Kresna Rail Bus operates every day on the tram rail taking passengers from Purwosari station to the neighboring Wonogiri city. The tram rail is also used by the Jaladara old steam train (Sepur Kluthuk Jaladara in the Javanese language), the Solo tourist train. I think it’s fun to explore Solo City by riding an old stream train crossing downtown, but unfortunately, I have to charter the entire train to ride it. So, if you’d like to experience riding an old steam train around Solo you have to rent the train for 3,5 Million Rupiah to the Solo City Department of Transportation.

If you’d like to experience different kinds of public transportation in Solo, you can also try to use Batik Solo Trans (BST), the Solo city bus. The ticket is Rp. 3.700,- per trip.

Things to See & Do in Solo

1. Surakarta Royal Palace (Keraton Kasunanan Surakarta Hadiningrat)

Surakarta Royal Palace was built in 1744 by Susuhunan Pakubuwono II, the Surakarta King at that time to replace the previous palace that was burned during the Chinese riot in Kartasura in 1743. The current Surakarta/ Solo King, Pakubuwono XIII is said to still live there.

Upon entering the courtyard, I found myself pretty impressed by the palace facade dominated by blue color, especially on the doors, pillars, and Sanggabuwana tower. We bought entrance tickets for Rp.15.000,- each person then started exploring the Surakarta Royal Palace accompanied by a guide who explained the history in English. We visited North Square, South Square, and the palace museum to see the Solo King’s treasure collection such as chariots, palanquins, statues, and ancient weapons. One part of the Surakarta Royal Palace that can’t be visited is the complex where the Pakubuwono King lives. Although I think they need to well maintain some parts of the palace, the tour of Surakarta Royal Palace is interesting and worth doing while traveling to Solo.

2. Pura Mangkunegaran

Pura Mangkunegaran has become famous among travelers since they revitalized some parts of the palace to be a new attraction. Pracimayoso’s room and its garden have been transformed to be a charming restaurant with a bit of a European touch called Pracima Tuin. That’s also the reason why I visited it a few weeks ago, along with other tourists who’d like to experience a culinary experience in a Javanese Royal Palace. I find their food is okay and the portion is pretty small, but its interior and the European-style garden are worth visiting.

Pura Mangkunegaran is the resident of Surakarta Duke, Mangkunegara X. It is open to the public daily from 08.00 – 15.00, with the ticket costs Rp. 20.000,- for Indonesian and Rp. 40.000,- for foreigners. Not only you be able to visit the palace but also get a chance to see traditional arts performances as well, such as the Gambyong Retno Kusuno & Bandoyudo dance every Wednesday and the Gamelan performance.

Similar to the Surakarta Royal Palace, in Pura Mangkunegaran, you also can visit the palace museum and see the royal collection such as rings, necklaces, earrings, bracelets, shoulder bracelets, dancing equipment, and even watch chains.

3. Sheikh Zayed Mosque

The grandeur of the white tall structure can be seen from afar in Solo City. It’s the Sheikh Zayed Mosque, a replica of the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi, UAE, that was built by the Indonesian government as a friendship token with Uni Emirates Arab. The 8.000 m2 width mosque has 2 floors, 4 towers, a main dome, and 82 smaller domes. Although it’s a replica of the biggest mosque in UAE, Sheikh Zayed Mosque was also built using Indonesian elements such as batik motif tiles.

It’s free to enter but you have to wear long pants for men and a head scarf for women to cover their hair. If you don’t bring it, you can rent it around the mosque. I find this mosque is spectacular. A must-visit in Solo!

4. Ngarsopuro Night Market

A chance to explore the Solo City on foot I get during the Ngarsopuro Night Market event on Saturday night. From 7 – 10 PM, Jalan Diponegoro to Jalan Gatot Subroto is closed for cars and motorbikes. We spent some time here to explore the night market. It’s pretty interesting to see the stuff they offer, especially in the street art market section. Although the night market is fascinating and a nice way to immerse in the local culture, I find it’s very crowded. The younger version of me can stay here for hours, but I am older now and prefer a more quiet spot.

5. Triwindhu Antique Market

Walking through the narrow alleys between the stalls in this antique market feels like you have been transported back to ancient Java. Kris’s dagger, puppets, ancient money, masks, chandeliers, and wood and stone sculptures are easy to spot. Not only that, but you can also find antique Western stuff such as vintage telephones, radio, iron, house appliances, and some Chinese art as well.

The Triwindhu art market was built in 1939 to commemorate 24 years of government of Mangkunegaran VII. Unfortunately, over time the market wasn’t well maintained. Later in the government of President Joko Widodo, Triwindu Market was redesigned and renovated to be a new market. It’s indeed a cool spot to visit in Solo City.

6. House of Danar Hadi (Batik museum and store)

As the origin of Batik, a trip to the Batik museum and store is a must-do while visiting Solo City. Initially, I considered visiting one of the Batik ‘kampung’ in Solo, Kampung Batik Kauman or Kampung Batik Laweyan. Both are the center of producers and sellers of Batik in Solo City, only Kampung Batik Laweyan is targeting an upscale market. But then we stumbled upon the House of Danar Hadi when walking around the city, so why not visit it? I’ve heard its reputation as a fine Batik maker and store for years.

A fluent English-speaking guide then brought us to the back part of the store that is used as the Batik museum. The story begins with the history of Danar Hadi, a Batik home industry founded in 1967 by Sansosa Doellah dan his wife Danarsih Hadipriyono. They started their business using mori cloth and woven cloth they received as wedding gifts. Their business is well-developed and famous for the high quality of its Batik. Now Danar Hadi owns 14 stores all around Indonesia, including in Solo and Yogyakarta.

The guide then explained to us the difference between handmade Batik, stamp Batik, and printed Batik. We were also shown some of their 10.000 Batik collection ranging from Batik Surakarta, Batik Jogja, Pekalongan, Peranakan, Cina, Dutch Batik, and many more.

Ticket: Rp. 35.000,-

7. National Press Monument

Are you interested in Indonesian press and political history? If yes, then a trip to the National Press Monument shouldn’t be missed. The National Press Monument is a press monument and the only press museum in Indonesia. It exhibits artifacts of mass media in Indonesia, from newspapers during the Dutch occupation era to modern media post-independence and after the 1998 reformation when the government had finally granted the freedom of the press.

It was fun exploring this museum since we were accompanied by a guide who explained passionately the history of the Indonesian press. The museum is also equipped with a library, a kid’s playground, and a digital room, the place where they digitalize newspapers. The National Press Museum is open every day from 9 AM to 3 PM and is free to visit.

8. Manahan Stadium

One of the perfect places to jog or take a stroll in Solo/ Surakarta is at Manahan Stadium. It’s in the city center, close to Purwosari station and only 9 km from the airport.

9. Tasting Authentic Food of Solo

Solo authentic food is well-known for its sweet & savory taste. You can find it easily from street food stalls to fine dining restaurants. Here are some cuisines I recommend you try while traveling to Solo, Indonesia (clockwise):

1. Nasi Liwet Solo: A rice dish cooked in coconut milk, chicken broth, and spices. Common steamed rice is usually cooked in water, but nasi liwet Solo is rice cooked in coconut milk, chicken broth, salam leaves, and lemongrass, thus giving the rice a rich, aromatic, and succulent taste. You can find it at various warungs in Solo City, but my favorite is Nasi Liwet Bu Sarmi in Pasar Kliwon.
2. Bubur Lemu Solo: A porridge that is made from rice cooked with coconut milk and various spices. The complement to this bubur lemu consists of chicken curry, chicken eggs, tofu, and krecek (dried beef skin) with chili sauce. The above picture is one of the variations of bubur lemu that is found in the neighboring city of Klaten.
3. Serabi Notosuman: An authentic Solo snack that is made from rice flour, sugar, coconut milk, pandan, and water. Notosuman is the name of the street where the snacks come from hence you will find some serabi stores on that street. The most well-known one is Serabi Notosuman Ny. Lidia.
4. Bubur sumsum: an Indonesian dessert made by cooking rice flour in coconut milk and served with palm sugar syrup. There is also a variety served with sweet potato dumplings or snakefruit seeds.
5. Wedang angsle: Wedang Angsle is a traditional Indonesian dessert soup made with coconut milk, palm sugar, and various ingredients such as mung beans, glutinous rice balls, and jackfruit. This sweet and creamy soup is often enjoyed as a comforting treat during cold weather or as a festive dessert on special occasions.
6. Bebek Gongso: Bebek Gongso is currently becoming popular. The duck is fried dry first, then grilled with sliced green tomatoes, fried peanuts, cayenne pepper, pete, and shallots. It tastes tender and more tasty compared with fried duck. One of the places to eat bebek gongso is at Ayam & Bebek Nyakmid in Klaten, 30 minutes from Solo City.

Where to Stay in Solo?

We stayed in Swiss-Belhotel Solo, a 4-star hotel that is relatively newly opened in Solo. It’s the closest place to stay if you wanna visit Sheikh Zayed Mosque, but also pretty close to other attractions in Solo. I like that our room has a city view, particularly with the blue-lit mosque at night. Another interesting feature of this hotel is its rooftop pool that is adjacent to the restaurant.

Solo may not be big but it does a lot to offer, especially if you are into history, culture, food, or city in general. A few days seem enough to cover most of the top attractions but surely not everything. As I had only limited time, I couldn’t visit Pasar Gede, Solo’s oldest traditional market which is known as the place to hunt traditional food & snacks. Located close to Solo Chinatown, every year it holds Grebeg Sudiroprajan, the Chinese New Year festival. Till next time, Surakarta!

Curious about my adventures in Europe and America ?. You can click the following links to see my traveling videos that have aired on Net TV :

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